Stanley

the ritz pajama!

chezpajama / posted on 22 October 2014 Dior, Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle
My bottle of original Hypnotic Poison is down to about it’s last 30% and I’ve been vacillating about whether I wanted to buy it again. I happened to come across a bottle of Eau Sensuelle for a good price so I decided to get that instead. It’s not like the original is going anywhere.
I guess Eau Sensuelle has been discontinued and replaced by Eau Secrete. I haven’t tried Eau Secrete so I can’t comment on it’s similarity to Eau Sensuelle.
Part of the reason for me opting for Eau Sensuelle is that I have a bottle of Keiko Mecheri’s Datura Blanche. Which is not completely similar to HP, but both are narcotic white floral scents laced with almond and bitter myrrh. 
Eau Sensuelle is more creamy and less woody. Like Hypnotic Poison infused pastry cream. On my skin it manifests a strong note of something reminiscent of star anise. Coming off like a less young, less brash version of Diesel’s Loverdose. 
There is a definite trend in the vanilla scents I can wear and appreciate. Cartier Must, YSL Cinema, Givenchy’s Ange ou Demon, Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir etc. They all seem to have a certain Oriental spiciness. The more spice, the more I enjoy them. Even Rochas Tocade and Avon’s Far Away are grounded in thick, spicy amber. Then there’s Lolita Lempicka with it’s huge dose of licorice and powder (love!). 
Which brings me to a bit of a revelation. I can now put my finger on what exactly it is about most current vanillas that I do not care for. They are not thick. They’re thin and screechy. Hot sugar laid over plastic. But in a sea of vanillas, I have as yet to figure out what separates one vanilla from the other. Madagascar vanilla, Tahitian vanilla, Bourbon vanilla. It doesn’t seem to matter where the vanilla hails from. 90% of the time it’s shrill and awful.
Anyway, I can’t say I love Eau Sensuelle. Not like I once loved the original Hypnotic Poison. But it is so very rare for me to find a wearable vanilla. Also, Diors make good swap currency. Especially discontinued Diors.
I just hope I don’t end up wishing I’d bought Fan di Fendi Extreme instead. It’s such a nice leather+vanilla but I already have Bvlgari Black and Fan di Fendi Leather Essence (swoon).
Notes: rose, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, tuberose, orchid, green notes, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, woody notes

Dior, Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle

My bottle of original Hypnotic Poison is down to about it’s last 30% and I’ve been vacillating about whether I wanted to buy it again. I happened to come across a bottle of Eau Sensuelle for a good price so I decided to get that instead. It’s not like the original is going anywhere.

I guess Eau Sensuelle has been discontinued and replaced by Eau Secrete. I haven’t tried Eau Secrete so I can’t comment on it’s similarity to Eau Sensuelle.

Part of the reason for me opting for Eau Sensuelle is that I have a bottle of Keiko Mecheri’s Datura Blanche. Which is not completely similar to HP, but both are narcotic white floral scents laced with almond and bitter myrrh. 

Eau Sensuelle is more creamy and less woody. Like Hypnotic Poison infused pastry cream. On my skin it manifests a strong note of something reminiscent of star anise. Coming off like a less young, less brash version of Diesel’s Loverdose. 

There is a definite trend in the vanilla scents I can wear and appreciate. Cartier Must, YSL Cinema, Givenchy’s Ange ou Demon, Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir etc. They all seem to have a certain Oriental spiciness. The more spice, the more I enjoy them. Even Rochas Tocade and Avon’s Far Away are grounded in thick, spicy amber. Then there’s Lolita Lempicka with it’s huge dose of licorice and powder (love!). 

Which brings me to a bit of a revelation. I can now put my finger on what exactly it is about most current vanillas that I do not care for. They are not thick. They’re thin and screechy. Hot sugar laid over plastic. But in a sea of vanillas, I have as yet to figure out what separates one vanilla from the other. Madagascar vanilla, Tahitian vanilla, Bourbon vanilla. It doesn’t seem to matter where the vanilla hails from. 90% of the time it’s shrill and awful.

Anyway, I can’t say I love Eau Sensuelle. Not like I once loved the original Hypnotic Poison. But it is so very rare for me to find a wearable vanilla. Also, Diors make good swap currency. Especially discontinued Diors.

I just hope I don’t end up wishing I’d bought Fan di Fendi Extreme instead. It’s such a nice leather+vanilla but I already have Bvlgari Black and Fan di Fendi Leather Essence (swoon).

Notes: rose, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, tuberose, orchid, green notes, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, woody notes


TAGS: dior christian dior vanilla orange blossom tuberose oriental vanilla white floral perfume

chezpajama / posted on 21 October 2014 Guerlain, Mitsouko (EDP)
People have very different definitions of what is and what is not a chypre. I am personally of the opinion that this is not a one size fits all term.
I am not such a fan of very green chypres such as Givenchy III, Eau de Campagne & Niki de Saint Phalle. Green scents and soapy scents aren’t really my thing. Cold + clean + earthy. Which is interesting to smell, but not a style of perfume that feels natural for me to wear.
Where some people seem to smell a very sweet, overripe peach in Mitsouko (some say rotten), I instead smell a very lactonic peach skin. The closest new perfume to which I can compare Mitsouko is Bottega Veneta and it’s buttery leather note. Except dial up the projection and longevity X 15.  
Mitsouko is never sharp. There’s actually an almost “fatty” quality lent by the lactones. For me, a very comforting scent. Strong, but never loud or sharp. I feel like Mitsouko blends perfectly with my skin.
The iconic status of this scent means a lot of people in the perfume world will say they “respect” Mitsouko instead of outright saying they dislike it. I’m not so lacking in self awareness to not realize this is a scent that can be very unappealing to modern taste.
Very few people I’ve known have liked this scent and most have been very outspoken about their opinions. Going so far as to tell me “this perfume makes me want to kill myself”. Burn notice! But I can’t go getting my panties in a bunch. A lot of my favorite perfumes have garnered colorful commentary from both “real” people and the perfume world. 
Just don’t give no fuck.
Top Notes: citruses, jasmine, bergamot, rose
Middle Notes: lilac, peach, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
Base Notes: spices, amber, cinnamon, vetiver, oakmoss

Guerlain, Mitsouko (EDP)

People have very different definitions of what is and what is not a chypre. I am personally of the opinion that this is not a one size fits all term.

I am not such a fan of very green chypres such as Givenchy III, Eau de Campagne & Niki de Saint Phalle. Green scents and soapy scents aren’t really my thing. Cold + clean + earthy. Which is interesting to smell, but not a style of perfume that feels natural for me to wear.

Where some people seem to smell a very sweet, overripe peach in Mitsouko (some say rotten), I instead smell a very lactonic peach skin. The closest new perfume to which I can compare Mitsouko is Bottega Veneta and it’s buttery leather note. Except dial up the projection and longevity X 15.  

Mitsouko is never sharp. There’s actually an almost “fatty” quality lent by the lactones. For me, a very comforting scent. Strong, but never loud or sharp. I feel like Mitsouko blends perfectly with my skin.

The iconic status of this scent means a lot of people in the perfume world will say they “respect” Mitsouko instead of outright saying they dislike it. I’m not so lacking in self awareness to not realize this is a scent that can be very unappealing to modern taste.

Very few people I’ve known have liked this scent and most have been very outspoken about their opinions. Going so far as to tell me “this perfume makes me want to kill myself”. Burn notice! But I can’t go getting my panties in a bunch. A lot of my favorite perfumes have garnered colorful commentary from both “real” people and the perfume world. 

Just don’t give no fuck.

Top Notes: citruses, jasmine, bergamot, rose

Middle Notes: lilac, peach, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose

Base Notes: spices, amber, cinnamon, vetiver, oakmoss


TAGS: guerlain peach lactones oakmoss chypre bergamot perfume french woody warm comfortable sweater scent

chezpajama / posted on 19 October 2014 Royal Hawaiian, WIcked Wahine
As much as I like the dirt cheap price point and the Hawaiiana packaging, I find this one kind of stank.
I was expecting something more similar to Yves Rocher’s Monoi de Tahiti, but instead it smells like soapy bubblegum.
There is a pervasive sharpness to WW that makes it smell cheap and unpleasant. Perhaps better off as a vacation souvenir than a perfume.
Notes: orange blossom, rose, hawaiian jasmine, white musk, sandalwood

Royal Hawaiian, WIcked Wahine

As much as I like the dirt cheap price point and the Hawaiiana packaging, I find this one kind of stank.

I was expecting something more similar to Yves Rocher’s Monoi de Tahiti, but instead it smells like soapy bubblegum.

There is a pervasive sharpness to WW that makes it smell cheap and unpleasant. Perhaps better off as a vacation souvenir than a perfume.

Notes: orange blossom, rose, hawaiian jasmine, white musk, sandalwood


TAGS: hawaii white floral orange blossom perfume

chezpajama / posted on 19 October 2014 Guerlain, L’Instant de Guerlain
Children’s Guerlinade.
I think it was smart of Guerlain to do this scent. It’s like L’Heure Bleu or Apres L’Ondee with all the objectionable notes (carnation, anise etc) removed and the addition of fruits and flowers for some freshness.
Instead of the typical, loud Guerlain vanilla you have a dominant accord of benzoin. Instead of sharp lemon you have apple, citrusy magnolia and a bit of bergamot. Mild and powdery with a distinct “makeup” smell.
It strikes me almost as a mid-line between Dahlia Noir EDP & EDT. 
I prefer L’Instant Magic, which is more of a true tribute to the powder queens of the Guerlain portfolio.
Notes: mandarin, bergamot, ylang-ylang, magnolia, jasmine sambac, apple, vanilla, benzoin, musk

Guerlain, L’Instant de Guerlain

Children’s Guerlinade.

I think it was smart of Guerlain to do this scent. It’s like L’Heure Bleu or Apres L’Ondee with all the objectionable notes (carnation, anise etc) removed and the addition of fruits and flowers for some freshness.

Instead of the typical, loud Guerlain vanilla you have a dominant accord of benzoin. Instead of sharp lemon you have apple, citrusy magnolia and a bit of bergamot. Mild and powdery with a distinct “makeup” smell.

It strikes me almost as a mid-line between Dahlia Noir EDP & EDT. 

I prefer L’Instant Magic, which is more of a true tribute to the powder queens of the Guerlain portfolio.

Notes: mandarin, bergamot, ylang-ylang, magnolia, jasmine sambac, apple, vanilla, benzoin, musk


TAGS: guerlain benzoin musk magnolia powdery french perfume

chezpajama / posted on 19 October 2014 Rihanna, Rebelle
There was a good amount of hype around Rihanna’s perfumes when they first hit shelves. I actually made a point to go out and try them because of it.
Not for me, but then I’m not really surprised.
Rebelle is a decent coffee/chocolate/patchouli scent if you like coffee, chocolate and patchouli. I’m not a big fan of the first two and feel neutral toward the last. 
At first Rebelle smells like somebody who hugged somebody else wearing Angel threw their Starbucks in your face. Some weirdo who mixed their Starbucks with Strawberry Quik.
The drydown is better. On my skin, it’s predominantly heliotrope and amber. Sweet, musky, non-descript.
It’s different than most celebrity scents because it doesn’t feature that generic “forest fruits” note or pear, but it’s not exceptional or unique by any means.
The bottle is hideous and very 80’s / 90’s Liz Claiborne.
Top Notes: plum, strawberry, ginger
Middle Notes: heliotrope, vanilla orchid, cocoa
Base Notes: coffee, musk, amber, patchouli

Rihanna, Rebelle

There was a good amount of hype around Rihanna’s perfumes when they first hit shelves. I actually made a point to go out and try them because of it.

Not for me, but then I’m not really surprised.

Rebelle is a decent coffee/chocolate/patchouli scent if you like coffee, chocolate and patchouli. I’m not a big fan of the first two and feel neutral toward the last. 

At first Rebelle smells like somebody who hugged somebody else wearing Angel threw their Starbucks in your face. Some weirdo who mixed their Starbucks with Strawberry Quik.

The drydown is better. On my skin, it’s predominantly heliotrope and amber. Sweet, musky, non-descript.

It’s different than most celebrity scents because it doesn’t feature that generic “forest fruits” note or pear, but it’s not exceptional or unique by any means.

The bottle is hideous and very 80’s / 90’s Liz Claiborne.

Top Notes: plum, strawberry, ginger

Middle Notes: heliotrope, vanilla orchid, cocoa

Base Notes: coffee, musk, amber, patchouli


TAGS: celebrity coffee chocolate patchouli strawberry heliotrope rihanna

chezpajama / posted on 19 October 2014 Maison Martin Margiela, Funfair Evening
People talk so much shit about Funfair Evening, but it’s one the few gourmand-ish scents I could see myself wearing.
To a certain degree, it reminds me of Naomi Campbell’s self-titled fragrance. Which makes sense. Orange blossom & star anise. Naomi Campbell actually has more depth though. Funfair Evening, like the other Replica scents, is pretty one dimensional. 
I still can’t help but like it though. Star anise is one of my favorite notes.
Notes: toffee apple, pear, star anise, orange blossom, rose, white musk, Tahitian vanilla, caramel candy

Maison Martin Margiela, Funfair Evening

People talk so much shit about Funfair Evening, but it’s one the few gourmand-ish scents I could see myself wearing.

To a certain degree, it reminds me of Naomi Campbell’s self-titled fragrance. Which makes sense. Orange blossom & star anise. Naomi Campbell actually has more depth though. Funfair Evening, like the other Replica scents, is pretty one dimensional. 

I still can’t help but like it though. Star anise is one of my favorite notes.

Notes: toffee apple, pear, star anise, orange blossom, rose, white musk, Tahitian vanilla, caramel candy


TAGS: maison martin margiela gourmand star anise orange blossom vanilla caramel toffee replica

chezpajama / posted on 19 October 2014 Diptyque, Eau Lente
A very straightforward spicy Oriental. Warm and sweet. A bit powdery. The honey-like qualities of opoponax mixed with cinnamon & clove have this one erring almost gourmand to me.
I totally don’t get how some people perceive this as a “difficult” or “challenging” scent as to me, it’s sweet and comforting. 
After realizing how much I actually enjoy cloves I tried quite a few Lutens. He is kind of the King of Cloves (Feminite du Bois, Arabie, Cuir Mauresque, Serge Noire etc) but too often, his cloves are paired with syrupy amber and sugary dried fruits.
Eau Lente is more of a dry spice. No potpourri or Yankee Candles. 
Notes: cinnamon, cloves, spices, opoponax

Diptyque, Eau Lente

A very straightforward spicy Oriental. Warm and sweet. A bit powdery. The honey-like qualities of opoponax mixed with cinnamon & clove have this one erring almost gourmand to me.

I totally don’t get how some people perceive this as a “difficult” or “challenging” scent as to me, it’s sweet and comforting. 

After realizing how much I actually enjoy cloves I tried quite a few Lutens. He is kind of the King of Cloves (Feminite du Bois, Arabie, Cuir Mauresque, Serge Noire etc) but too often, his cloves are paired with syrupy amber and sugary dried fruits.

Eau Lente is more of a dry spice. No potpourri or Yankee Candles. 

Notes: cinnamon, cloves, spices, opoponax


TAGS: diptyque cloves cinnamon spicy oriental opoponax sweet powdery unisex niche french

chezpajama / posted on 17 October 2014 Creed, Virgin Island Water
SO MUCH LIME.
Really, I can’t smell much else. Lime and sugar. Limeade. 
I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion that, for me, lime is a perfume ruiner. I feel the same way about Burberry Brit and Armani Lei. 
I know I am pretty much the only person that does not like Virgin Island Water. Sorry, but I love coconut very much and it’s getting gangbanged by limes. That makes me unhappy.
Notes: white bergamot, Jamaican lime, Sicilian mandarin, coconut, Indian jasmine, hibiscus, ylang-ylang, ginger, white rum, sugar cane, musk

Creed, Virgin Island Water

SO MUCH LIME.

Really, I can’t smell much else. Lime and sugar. Limeade. 

I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion that, for me, lime is a perfume ruiner. I feel the same way about Burberry Brit and Armani Lei. 

I know I am pretty much the only person that does not like Virgin Island Water. Sorry, but I love coconut very much and it’s getting gangbanged by limes. That makes me unhappy.

Notes: white bergamot, Jamaican lime, Sicilian mandarin, coconut, Indian jasmine, hibiscus, ylang-ylang, ginger, white rum, sugar cane, musk


TAGS: creed british niche lime citrus sugar summer unisex

chezpajama / posted on 17 October 2014 Chanel, Coco Noir
Kind of confused how this is the noir version of Coco. Seeing as Coco is heavier and darker with it’s civet and cloves. This new Coco smells like sweet, semi-soapy patchouli? It has more in common with Coco Mademoiselle than the original Coco. Maybe that’s it? It’s the noir version of Coco Mad?
I don’t know what it is with Chanel perfumes, but they seem to cause mental retardation. Chanel No. 5 smells like cookies? Really? Yeah, ok..
Same goes for Coco Noir. Some people attack this perfume like rabid dogs. So bizarre because it’s not bad or offensive in the least. Others say it’s so dark and even “masculine”. Um no. It’s also not “goth” in the slightest. 
I swear people treat Chanel like fucking Rorschach.
Notes: grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot, Heart: rose, narcissus, rose geranium leaf, jasmine, tonka bean, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, white musk frankincense

Chanel, Coco Noir

Kind of confused how this is the noir version of Coco. Seeing as Coco is heavier and darker with it’s civet and cloves. This new Coco smells like sweet, semi-soapy patchouli? It has more in common with Coco Mademoiselle than the original Coco. Maybe that’s it? It’s the noir version of Coco Mad?

I don’t know what it is with Chanel perfumes, but they seem to cause mental retardation. Chanel No. 5 smells like cookies? Really? Yeah, ok..

Same goes for Coco Noir. Some people attack this perfume like rabid dogs. So bizarre because it’s not bad or offensive in the least. Others say it’s so dark and even “masculine”. Um no. It’s also not “goth” in the slightest. 

I swear people treat Chanel like fucking Rorschach.

Notes: grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot, Heart: rose, narcissus, rose geranium leaf, jasmine, tonka bean, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, white musk frankincense


TAGS: chanel you dumb

chezpajama / posted on 17 October 2014

Mitsouko

I found a really good price for Mitsouko EDP on eBay so I’ve decided to try and order it, again. My bottle has been empty for a while. I’ve tried to replace it three times only to be disappointed. One out of stock and two never shipped. Crossing my fingers this one gets to me, because I’m tired of sniffing my empty bottle. I really want to wear Mitsouko again this winter.

Mitsouko = afghan of perfumes. Love.


TAGS: guerlain buying shit ebay chypre winter

Archive Page